tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28484932980780128712024-03-19T05:17:03.151-04:00modeling in 1/87A "diary" of my modeling experience.chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.comBlogger62125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-14097923177307205122017-03-20T11:12:00.004-04:002017-03-20T11:12:43.102-04:00No more Jordan's <br />
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It would be impossible for me to show all of the Jordan Highway Miniatures that I have built in one posting. You can look back in the archives to find many of them. These models were unique to 1/87 scale vehicle modeling in that they offered a highly detailed kit of injected molded plastic much like what larger scale modelers have available and what most of us are familiar with when we first all started building model kits. They came on a sprue and were assembled with a solvent type glue that welded the parts together to create a sturdy model when completed. The craftsmanship exhibited in the Jordan kits was second to none and the detail can't really be found in any other medium with the exception of after market photo etched parts.<br />
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I would like to comment on the fact that the Jordan molds are to be destroyed. Rumor has it that it was in Jordan Jacksons' will that this happen. I find this to be a terribly sad commentary on the legacy of someone whom offered the modeling community some of the highest quality and diverse products that we so highly value. Were it me, I would have wanted the talented efforts to continue and be remembered. That said, I wish to express my sympathy and prayers to Jordan Jacksons' family and friends and wish that his memory survive beyond his models.<br />
I show here just a few of my most recently finished kits and bemoan the fact that I have only but a very few left. One of my favorites was the Bucyrus Erie B2 steam crawler that came in two configurations. One being a shovel and the other shown here a crane. I leave the side boarding off of these when I build them to show the magnificently detailed workings of the steam engine.<br />
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Another Jordan kit I have built many of is the Ford Model TT. This kit is a favorite of model railroaders and represents a popular era many represent on their layouts. The original kit is configured in a stake bed that I have often changed to offer a wider variety. Here, in my most recent TT build, I merely placed a wooden flatbed and "wrecked" it by placing a front wheel on a cinder block and weathered it appropriately.</div>
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In a fit of whimsy, I built a rat rod of the TT truck with the help of another Jordan kit, involving the use of the flathead V8 from the '40 Ford sedan. Not my best effort but a pretty wild little piece.</div>
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I was given this next kit to build in return for some accessory parts and thoroughly enjoyed the trade here. The Model A pickup may be the most popular of all the Jordan kits and this one was built box stock and without my (what has become) signature weathering.</div>
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And so an era in 1/87 scale vehicle modeling comes to an end. I envy those of you hoarding Jordan kits and wish you happy modeling as you go about completing them. I suspect the kits will be fetching amazing prices on ebay as time goes on and rightly so I suppose. I will sorely miss the 1922 Packard, the Ford Model AA and the deuce coupe mostly but there are so many great kits out there that I would love to be able to include in my modeling future.</div>
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In closing, I would encourage all to show their appreciation to those they love. Spread the hugs!</div>
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chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-14572385342951493112017-01-27T09:51:00.000-05:002017-01-27T10:01:37.643-05:00Moving Forward.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I approach this weekend with disappointment at the fact that I will not be attending the Train show in Springfield, Mass. that started today. I enjoy viewing all of the efforts made by those members of the 1/87 Vehicle Club that have decided to display there and wish this year was not the exception. But more, I will miss seeing the modelers themselves, many of whom have become my good friends. My hope and prayers go out that all have a safe and enjoyable time.<br />
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Among them is a man I have mentioned here before that offers modelers a wonderful selection of resin cast model kits by the name of Don Mills. For several years now Don has listed on his web site a Kenworth Narrownose tractor that has been labeled "coming soon". Well soon has come to pass and he did not disappoint in this kit. My good friend Joe Enriquez has been showing me his efforts to turn this model into a class act for quite some time now and I applaud his work that contributed to the Don Mills kit.<br />
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I made some changes to the kit that are not readily apparent but bear mentioning here. Because of the crispness and quality of Ratcliffe Model castings, I decided to utilize his suspensions front and rear as well as the wheels. The wheels and tires are also slightly larger than the ones that come with the kit. Added aslo are quarter fenders and mudflaps in cast metal from Alloy Forms. In the photo below you will notice a photo etched crossover deck that comes from the very impressive collection of photo etched details of Pitstop87. A visor has been fashioned from sheet brass.<br />
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Lastly is a photo etched heat shield on the muffler from Masterbilt models. A big thanks to Bob Johnson for it. It has been mentioned some time ago by another modeler that builds bright shiny models that I, and those like me that weather our models, are doing so to cover mistakes and flaws. In other words that we don't do meticulously clean vehicles because we can't. For him I offer up the last photo here to show the results of my airbrush talents before weathering. I weather simply to provide what I believe validates them and when photographed in a scale setting gives a sense of reality. </div>
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Another model worked on recently has been the Wiking Peterbilt. This particular model came in a wrecker configuration But I always thought needed a good wrecker unit than the one it comes with. So I decided to utilize the fantastic Holmes unit that comes with several of the Athearn trucks. It was a simple matter really of cutting the molded fixtures from the Wiking bed, applying a photo etched diamond plate deck and mounting the Holmes. I re-cabled the Holmes unit to be more prototypical, put Dennis Aust wheels on it and added stainless mirrors to the rig. The headlights were change from the quad units to single lens and the rear of the Athearn bed was fitted.</div>
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Do have a good remainder to this winter, thanks for looking!</div>
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-79552115908350056952016-12-02T12:53:00.002-05:002016-12-02T12:56:51.352-05:00finally!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After quite some time now, it looks like the modeling bug has returned. Bringing the miniature world of 1/87 scale to life is not something I have completely abandoned.<br />
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In this newest of postings, I'd like to show a few things that kick started my journey back. Venturing back into the archives here would produce quite a few of the Roco Zis-5 piece that I have explained the details of, most important of which is that it is the same, exact truck as the Autocar Dispatch of the early 1930's. The first of these that I show today is a tanker. The tanker body is a resin casting from a company in Eastern Europe that created it specifically for the Roco model. Added to the tanker body was the utility cabinet on the back from Jordan Miniatures and a hanging bucket. I need to inform any that have admired the Jordan line that unfortunately the owner has passed away. And what makes this terrible news to the modeler is that is was his wish that his casting molds be destroyed. Prayers go out to his family.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizfAKaNksuhzrNTiLeQG8PdW18gArHiJGZk0ZxzlctvwmBjwspX0a0h7edNkl8LPEw5NtFwPReFSPmHieSnGh9yvYtc3DXRYYvhuo1zfpHabyDHnByM4bJ0JcNfX01pykkjCxvCLPb8T81/s1600/4b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizfAKaNksuhzrNTiLeQG8PdW18gArHiJGZk0ZxzlctvwmBjwspX0a0h7edNkl8LPEw5NtFwPReFSPmHieSnGh9yvYtc3DXRYYvhuo1zfpHabyDHnByM4bJ0JcNfX01pykkjCxvCLPb8T81/s320/4b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I follow this with another Autocar Dispatch and again, I have enlisted a Jordan part, that of the stake bed. A very highly detailed piece and I'm sorry not to have many more of them left. Not a lot more to say about this model except for the working truck weathering. </div>
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Next is a wholly Jordan piece in the Ford Model TT in a tanker. The tanker body coming from the Jordan Ford Model AA (possibly my favorite Jordan).</div>
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Lastly, I would like to show what is without any doubt my absolute favorite model kit. This Mack FK came in cast resin kit form from Ralph Ratcliffe Models. William there has produced super high quality model parts in both fit and finish to give the 1/87 community an outstanding piece. All that was added to the kit was a winch, also from Ratcliffe models. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.</div>
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So thank you for taking the time to look, I hope you enjoyed. </div>
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To close, I would like to express my thanks to my very best friend and the person with whom I am sharing my work and leisure. The wonderful and lovely Debra. Thank you for your company and encouragement!</div>
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chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-6134401145795498222014-09-30T10:37:00.000-04:002014-09-30T10:39:05.638-04:001930's pieces<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0oOatAxVaLiVaBMmMkGm0M1DB0ndt1L8Y6DhL7UZ7Ol8k0J3xsJ9sJyvi3YWQkmyH28OUEnhsrXE35XynH1TUPH1QbB03alaLTC-uOecpnN8VbMKww4ZZiZcaCoRRl_jTzjQm4Gr3CJFe/s1600/1g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0oOatAxVaLiVaBMmMkGm0M1DB0ndt1L8Y6DhL7UZ7Ol8k0J3xsJ9sJyvi3YWQkmyH28OUEnhsrXE35XynH1TUPH1QbB03alaLTC-uOecpnN8VbMKww4ZZiZcaCoRRl_jTzjQm4Gr3CJFe/s1600/1g.jpg" height="181" width="400" /></a></div>
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Not a lot to show in this post. Had much on my mind and a lot to do this summer. But taking time to build is good therapy for the mind. It takes us away from the harsh reality of life and puts us in a place where we can create unencumbered by the distractions we face constantly. It also gives a sense of accomplishment. The ability to create something in miniature that reflects real life.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13FtC65i9MVbuEPQ8__1GK8smFFDuS0zO_VVulY85P8ecyPQWbVSDf668quSd9_BjC5ZLM5NGj3iys-Xiy_SmIQse7LScfiKtkEyr2HmP0036qIJiAzXltCMNaSAD9Mu5svqDPEy5z_nv/s1600/1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13FtC65i9MVbuEPQ8__1GK8smFFDuS0zO_VVulY85P8ecyPQWbVSDf668quSd9_BjC5ZLM5NGj3iys-Xiy_SmIQse7LScfiKtkEyr2HmP0036qIJiAzXltCMNaSAD9Mu5svqDPEy5z_nv/s1600/1a.jpg" height="165" width="320" /></a></div>
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The yellow dumper here is the 1936 Chevy, a resin kit from Sylvan Scale. I assembled the model itself as per instructions, added a clear acrylic windshield, new wheels from Jordan and the wooden scuff boards on the bed. This is actually, the first time I have used the chipping technique with hairspray. I have always used Future Floor Finish with Windex but the hairspray gives a much more controllable chipping. I will be doing more this way in the future (or should I say without Future?)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ3xjn0Qwu3aw1ZiiyQB9UYqSOaNrzDIQ7p2LcYeATE8TnRGtOq64YfqHcOkw2N4DzJMyk7W6TX9Zk8bJn-xX9HZIalzjbyTapHX43_Sa7EckAVY_wyGDs9-SRf1RPZ8O6Gl05tJzs4Lk9/s1600/1c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ3xjn0Qwu3aw1ZiiyQB9UYqSOaNrzDIQ7p2LcYeATE8TnRGtOq64YfqHcOkw2N4DzJMyk7W6TX9Zk8bJn-xX9HZIalzjbyTapHX43_Sa7EckAVY_wyGDs9-SRf1RPZ8O6Gl05tJzs4Lk9/s1600/1c.jpg" height="162" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0CqDMjXNVAo6N3zb_T3skCpWVfXpdFIWfqeSyPCnJhQy2h5RU11i47OPgq4Fgk_-XKJ0fgfqsSDL-anEWHPpGQbod5kIFq_a6c5qSy9Ln7Emj3YUMzxvVw2dNQogMwKie1reMHk2cCRcE/s1600/3h2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0CqDMjXNVAo6N3zb_T3skCpWVfXpdFIWfqeSyPCnJhQy2h5RU11i47OPgq4Fgk_-XKJ0fgfqsSDL-anEWHPpGQbod5kIFq_a6c5qSy9Ln7Emj3YUMzxvVw2dNQogMwKie1reMHk2cCRcE/s1600/3h2.jpg" height="159" width="320" /> </a></div>
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The next is an addendum to my fire house diorama. This is the Busch 1932 Model AA that I have made into an ambulance. Changes are basically just the paint and decals with the addition of a siren (Ratcliffe Models). I'm going to add the AA to my firehouse diorama and along with the '34 Ford pumper will make a package deal to take to the big show in Springfield this year.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD8YGWJFVlPe-n3OZ5argosQXwjNuDo3kQrHJQBJvInpnmz8c_bOYvJjA2xadV3pBXNZ5c1dq5-Gl5XhcAbrQ2hFgmmsZb7V0mvTPaMQvRg-tCnCOg_aaXYY2k6m15s5VW4gDgtftfh9LK/s1600/3e2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD8YGWJFVlPe-n3OZ5argosQXwjNuDo3kQrHJQBJvInpnmz8c_bOYvJjA2xadV3pBXNZ5c1dq5-Gl5XhcAbrQ2hFgmmsZb7V0mvTPaMQvRg-tCnCOg_aaXYY2k6m15s5VW4gDgtftfh9LK/s1600/3e2.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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So as I said, not a lot to look at here this time around. I am slowly getting back on my feet after another kick in the teeth from life but I'm standing. Next we'll try to put one foot in front of the other and see how that goes. Please hug all that mean anything to you.chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-9062866987418662852014-06-07T19:39:00.001-04:002014-06-07T19:39:18.844-04:00Playing with the camera again<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs5DeeU_uW5LgFeUxANVlvJtXuAjnutQ6uen-U1DDq5a0sM-Uv8AvtOYZFOOCHT3xq5pVdZl8pM3FApk6hwvDZ04m7XOgJ6x5EUV5t8vWk3MNNkbET9wODLEf5F_Ittwrq7uzVTgWqicNd/s1600/ng.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs5DeeU_uW5LgFeUxANVlvJtXuAjnutQ6uen-U1DDq5a0sM-Uv8AvtOYZFOOCHT3xq5pVdZl8pM3FApk6hwvDZ04m7XOgJ6x5EUV5t8vWk3MNNkbET9wODLEf5F_Ittwrq7uzVTgWqicNd/s1600/ng.jpg" height="147" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm wondering where life would have taken me had all of this technology been available way back when. For that matter, where would folks like Thomas Edison or Alexander Graham Bell be if they could have accessed everything we have literally at our fingertips today. I'll leave the speculation on those fellas to some Hollywood producer for a future cinematic endeavor. But for me, I'm pretty sure I'd have taken a different path. Retrospect is a weird thing. I know that had I not been a smoker all my adult life I'd be some $80 thousand richer given some rather casual calculating. (And wouldn't get winded walking up the hill from the harbor.) As long as thinking about "what if's" doesn't get to be a preoccupation, I suppose it's OK but as I get older, it seems I do it more often than I used to. Perhaps it's a subconscious realization that there's way more time used up behind me than there is ahead. I do recognize that very few of the more important choices I've made would be different if it were possible to know what I know now. I certainly wouldn't have wanted to go through this life without my wife and kids. All that said brings me to what captures my interest today. One of my fascinations today focuses on this hobby of course. And without a doubt, the ability to capture what we do in pictures has become a particularly enjoyable effort. Not much in the way of new models this posting but a few photos that I thought made for some realistic images. Of course given the era many of the photos would have been taken, most are black and white.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrCO0m4JZo8wqTZwl8BpgiMBd2UXnuZpDCgVASpQVI-eBSV1TKM1wv-kq0z9yAv6iG_nPF0VYPPn1DrTAoe_CHVbPu9LV-OHIEMGw1oCliEVzAjEPGJ2tu-n3cRfOYfIzUeW2SaRhyphenhyphen6-4K/s1600/1ebw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrCO0m4JZo8wqTZwl8BpgiMBd2UXnuZpDCgVASpQVI-eBSV1TKM1wv-kq0z9yAv6iG_nPF0VYPPn1DrTAoe_CHVbPu9LV-OHIEMGw1oCliEVzAjEPGJ2tu-n3cRfOYfIzUeW2SaRhyphenhyphen6-4K/s1600/1ebw.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></div>
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When I made the change into the new computer last winter, I needed to update a lot of the software I had in order for it to work. Much of it had the expected improvements and doodads that weren't on the older versions. My graphics program is rather rudimentary by the standards I see offered by much on the market today but was inexpensive and actually does a lot more than I even know how to use. Now in addition to not knowing what the settings on the camera do, I don't know what the photo editing software does either. So what I present to you was achieved by sheer luck and repeated attempts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1estuNW8GNPsV67LB0mfaE_ASj5rf55dYX_3bWGPICBw7YaOxiqSf4gpAPZyLAECC6LvEOqY0BBSyknCYRSL5tTNbjBlltJlYPqNhzOzVCkdOoaEEkMv7V0GNqQJHUuxeODHPUW6feopY/s1600/7d2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1estuNW8GNPsV67LB0mfaE_ASj5rf55dYX_3bWGPICBw7YaOxiqSf4gpAPZyLAECC6LvEOqY0BBSyknCYRSL5tTNbjBlltJlYPqNhzOzVCkdOoaEEkMv7V0GNqQJHUuxeODHPUW6feopY/s1600/7d2.jpg" height="205" width="320" /></a></div>
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Making a model appear like the real thing is, as I have repeatedly said before, what model building is all about, for me at least. Presenting a miniature rendition of real life is the goal. This manipulation of photographs is a terrific technique to help us to get to the goal. I don't want to hide anything that would belay the fact that something is a model. But more, I want to enhance those things that fool the eye into thinking a piece is real. Oh, there's always that speck of dust that sticks out like a cherry on a cream pie in this scale. I will often remove the speck and take another photo. But sometimes it's just as easy to wipe it from the memory of the image. <br />
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Then there's that serendipitous occasion when something quite unexpected happens as in the case of the photo of the Ford Model TT grain truck. It appears that I have a resident spider that put his web in my barn interior. The web here is so small and delicate that I didn't see it when taking the photo and was really quite delighted to see it when I began to crop the photos on the computer screen. How many old barns have I seen this in over the years?<br />
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OK, I do have one new model at least to show. This is an addition to the fleet of Mack quarry trucks I've done for a customer. As with the rest of them, it comes from Ratcliffe Models. The tractor is the M65, slightly modified from the kit. The large capacity belly dump trailer is a limited edition resin piece. It now is the largest 1/87 scale model I've ever built.<br />
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As the weather warms, I expect a little drop off on production here but we'll still be working on models. In fact I have a project that may prove to be very interesting in the works. I have been approached by a prominent 1/87 kit manufacturer to do a video. I have no idea how this will turn out. I usually let the models speak for themselves. Will need a haircut before filming. Take time to reach out to your loved ones and have a good one! chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-26652670072224402282014-05-26T18:24:00.000-04:002014-05-26T18:25:23.239-04:00Firehouse project<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been sitting on a disassembled Railway Design Associates plastic building for some time. I built it several years ago but tore it apart shortly after using half of it for the stucco building you see in a lot of my photos. For the other half, I have used styrene clapboard sides with Tichy windows and doors to make this firehouse. The first floor is styrene boxcar siding to give a wooden floor look. And the second floor and roof are just sheet styrene. The roof has black paper strips applied for a finish.<br />
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Everything was sprayed black, inside and out. Then the brick front and rear were sprayed with an acrylic craft paint mixture of Terra Cotta and Crimson Red. The side walls were done in a blue and the windows and doors were hand painted a slightly lighter blue color. The ivy is 'old man's beard' a lichen growing here, that was sprayed dark brown and while wet, laid on a piece of glass flat and tea leaves were sprinkled over it. Once dry it was touched up with a little green paint and glued to the wall.<br />
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The engine here is a 1934 Ford built from the '34 Ford bus from Jordan. The chassis was glued in upside down and the body was scratch built. The windscreen is from a model T and the hose reel and fittings on the pumper sides are scratch built. The top photo shows the completed station.<br />
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One more Roco Zis 5 turned Autocar here for this wrecker. A scratch built bed and wrecker unit make up this truck.<br />
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One last pic for this post is a Model T touring car from Jordan, pretty much as it is intended to be built. I did take some liberties on the colors. I doubt if many were this colorful.<br />
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With that one, this Memorial Day, I will leave you all so you may give the thanks deserved by all those that have donned a uniform in the service of our country. <br />
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-64004924313329750542014-04-12T19:10:00.004-04:002014-04-12T19:10:53.307-04:00Fun in the garage<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I haven't wasted any time getting shots of my new garage diorama here. Everything sitting on my shelves here has become fair game for the next photograph. And I've been playing with the light as it enters the windows like a cat chasing the beam of a flashlight. Most everything has turned out being artsy-fartsy kind of images and really don't contribute to the models description. But it's been fun.<br />
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I have built a few new models in the mean time including this 1936 Chevy tanker. The base model is from Sylvan Scale that I used the resin cab and chassis to which I added a tank and bunks. The tank is two Jordan tanks spliced. The wheels are Jordan's as well.<br />
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I decided to build another of the Roco pieces. And in spite of the fact that these are hard to find, I really trashed this one. Using the Dremel, I went to work on the door panels and fenders. I have tried this before with decent results but when you decide to cut up a perfectly good (and now rare) model, you always have your trepidations. The wood deck is...... well, it's wood. I also made an attempt at the Autocar Blue Streak 6 cylinder that came in these trucks so I cut the hood sides too so it would show.<br />
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The next and last in this posting is an addendum to my Mack R Model. I wanted to do a utility pole truck with the Mack, but not just a wooden telephone pole type, but a transmission tower metal pole. Ralph Ratcliffe, as if he isn't already one of the biggest contributors to my modeling, came through for me. I found an expandable container trailer from an outfit called American Limited. A really finely detailed but unfortunately discontinued model kit in the scale. I mounted bunks on the assembled kit and painted it to match the truck. Then Ralph turned a gorgeous stainless steel pole for me complete with mounting flange. It simply makes this model and many thanks go out to Ralph for his generous talents.<br />
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I'll leave you with one more parting shot of the garage this post done with a pen flashlight. And I hope that this coming nice weather is bringing you closer to your loved ones.<br />
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-55242540456367453042014-04-01T19:26:00.001-04:002014-04-01T19:35:44.915-04:00Extremes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Seems like I jump from project to project without much thought given to a theme or era. I guess that's what makes this modeling thing so interesting to me. I'm not locked into any one particular time frame or type of vehicle. Or even whether I will be doing a vehicle or a house, barn or whatever. Anyway, I've certainly strayed from any coherent pattern here this month. Without a doubt the largest vehicle I've ever built is the Mack M75 quarry truck you see. This is a kit from Ralph Ratcliffe Models that has his usual, exceptional fit and finish. Not quite as heavily weathered as I did to it's little brother the M65 a short time ago. <br />
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A definite departure from this monster is the next set that I decided to pair up together. The Jordan Ford Model AA is obviously a favorite of mine if you've seen many of the other postings I've placed here. I built the wrecker bed and tow unit for this truck from scratch out of styrene. Wanting to finally do a tow truck pulling a wreck, I turned to another Jordan, the Model A sedan. <br />
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I really worked this one over. By taking the Dremel tool to the inside and chewing out some plastic, I achieved the rotted look you see here. And with a series of washes and dabs of chalk got what I thought was a pretty awful looking car. A broken window, exposed engine and front hubs and the open roof with ribs showing add to the dilapidated look. If you go back two posts there is another quick look of this wreck sitting in my new garage.<br />
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At the Springfield show I picked up Sylvan's newest kit, a Fruehauf livestock trailer that is resin with laser cut wooden sides. These are very delicate but manageable if careful. I paired this with the Chevy cab over from Sylvan from the early 50's which is a good match to the time span of the trailer.<br />
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Last and most recent is just one more of those Roco pieces that I've been able to acquire through the help of others. The rack body here is scratch built out of styrene and here's another shot from inside my truck repair garage.<br />
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Well, I jumped around quite a bit here. And as spring fights hard to take hold here in Maine, I hope you all have fared well through this, the toughest of winters I have seen in a while. And as the flowers begin to poke their shoots through the soil, give remembrance to those you have loved and lost.<br />
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-22552662453130228102014-04-01T12:01:00.001-04:002014-04-01T12:03:05.246-04:00thoughts from long ago<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">I wrote this many years ago for a web site that is still in existence but has slowed in traffic. I still go there to see if any of my old friends are posting things of interest as they are a highly educated group in the realm of 1/87 scale vehicles. Sorry no photos accompany this writing but it struck me as still very much appropriate to my feelings on the hobby.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I started this as wanting to get an opinion
poll going but when I finished writing I forgot what I was going to ask a
poll about. Your forgiveness is requested if this seems a bit too
editorial for these pages. I'm off on another rant today, please forgive
it's lengthiness.<br />
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Every forum or list that I subscribe to ends up having a topic posted
like "who are we?". And inevitably everyone gives a brief summary of
what they are in this life. Husband, father, construction worker,
investment banker etc., how long they've been at it and a brief blurb
about how long they've been modeling. This is fine and good and I am
very interested and actually quite amazed in the diversity of the
participants in our hobby. But it doesn't really say who we are as
modelers. It shows us all of the differences in us but doesn't address
what we share in common as modelers. One must delve much deeper into
the psyche of a modeler in order to find the common ground that makes us
as devoted to our hobby as we are. Of any form of recreation that I
participate in (I love to fish and I'm a minor sports nut), I have come
to the realization that those that share this one with me are the most
preoccupied and enthusiastic (some may say even fanatical). Truly a rare
breed and in most cases a subject of concern among their families. ("Is
Dad alright? He's been poking at that model over 4 hours now.")<br />
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It is an odd occurrence that would put me in my pick up to go somewhere,
even if only down the road a short piece, that I am not imagining
something I would like to model. An old truck in a field, a barn, a tree
even a culvert that is passing under me, all become subjects for
consideration. Immediately the wheels begin to turn or the light bulb
goes off or whatever you use to describe the smell of an idea being born
(you don't smell things burning when you think ? hmm..) Thought then
turns to the elements of the build process that would bring any of these
subjects to fruition in miniature. "OK, now draw it out...and you'll
need some 1/16" diameter tubing and some scale wood...hmm... how long to
put that part together ?" Soon you have a plan or at least the start
of a plan. Now don't make me paranoid by saying this doesn't occur from
time to time to you. I know I'm not alone in this thought process and
it's time you all came out of the closet with me.<br />
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Now that we've established at least one thing in common (hopefully), we
share some of the same thoughts as we observe the real world passing by
our windshield. Or at least some kind of pattern in our thinking that
seems to want to translate everything we are in contact with into
miniature. (I tried this with my mortgage but the bank wasn't going for
it). I won't try to explain why this is so, I'm not qualified to make
that call. These thoughts help to get me through the day, is all I know.<br />
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Let's examine too the reasoning that takes place as we go through the
day. What takes place in your cranial cavity when we are sorting through
the cabinet under the sink or the coffee cans stacked up in the garage
filled with every screw, nut and tiny piece of wire that we've ever run
across? There isn't one nook or cranny in my shop that hasn't been
thoroughly examined for items that possess model building attributes.
(what the heck is a cranny anyway ?) All the materials that pass before
us become fair game and hold possibilities of becoming a part of our
next model. Or at least an integral part of the building of that model.
When I asked my wife for her used compacts, I thought she would have me
committed. I got equally disturbing looks when I wanted old stockings
and nail polish too. But hey, these are standard tools of the hobby
we're talking about here. Actually this has all worked to my advantage
because now I am thought to have, shall we say, a stability issue, and
it drums up a lot of sympathy.<br />
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There is one last habit that confirms our bonds and that is the one we
are currently sharing. The computer access to the internet has been
invaluable in finding those other lost souls who's minds are filled with
visions of the world in miniature. We are thrilled at the opportunity
to share a technique that works for us and to exhibit the results. We
are gratified at the positive responses we get and are appreciative of
the constructive criticism. It is pleasing to view the successes of
others and motivating to see phenomenal accomplishments. I personally
jump at the chance to get any new information "on the web" and make it
part of the electronic highway for those as interested as I am to view.
I'd like to take the old saying "misery loves company" and give it a new
twist by saying that this common interest we all have, loves it's
company.<br />
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Now this all may sound a little strange to some and I wouldn't blame you
a bit if you walked away saying "man, this guys' wife has it right,
he's nuts". But I know somewhere out there, someone knows that what I'm
saying is so. I'm sure I haven't covered all the little oddities we
share because of whom we are and I'd like to think some of them should
be kept to ourselves. There is something about who we are that many of
us share and it goes beyond what we do to pay our bills or how many kids
we have or where we live. It resides in a space inside of us that loves
to create and we have chosen to do so in miniature. Perhaps what is
most comforting about this is the ability to transcend all the barriers
of race, politics, religion, income and I guess even gender and age.<br />
To be modelers first, that just happen to be real people.</span></span><br />
</span>chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-26814060700075456942014-03-22T10:09:00.001-04:002014-03-27T08:05:01.264-04:00New photo backdrop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTi6OcISd9x26DlnLozO6ZXb1OUPyb8Hsa1894pglnp7coOdwZKeyaaAhHbqYcAiH-SYuy1Bf8kdP8QntlVzQOluc7EFeQ9Muag2c4AdU_EJEpEvlp2CIAFfz4bXyY8iAE7_P1oNcPu3n/s1600/final1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTi6OcISd9x26DlnLozO6ZXb1OUPyb8Hsa1894pglnp7coOdwZKeyaaAhHbqYcAiH-SYuy1Bf8kdP8QntlVzQOluc7EFeQ9Muag2c4AdU_EJEpEvlp2CIAFfz4bXyY8iAE7_P1oNcPu3n/s1600/final1.jpg" height="308" width="640" /></a></div>
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When I attended the Amherst Railway show in Springfield, Mass. this year, I had several folks wanting to use my barn diorama for photo opportunities. Unfortunately, the diorama is much smaller in real life than people imagine and does not accommodate larger vehices. I did so want to be able to see a piece from Joe Enriquez or Ralph Ratcliffe look well in my barn. And Andy Madden made some valiant attempts with his camera with satisfactory results. And as good as they turned out there was something not quite at home about them. So I turned to my diorama building again and designed and built the garage repair interior that you can see here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlao0hVRWydk8loiEyvWF4u_7tiep-BAaRSOusH1BGoe3uDN-5s8c6nm0rKcjmkQqj74BHYlfAefov7lQcf_wiizjRUG22dAC7ol2XaGIbDuE7sK7iFmhjEDK-TV2t7S0pbZpyUSUJ0Ml/s1600/1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlao0hVRWydk8loiEyvWF4u_7tiep-BAaRSOusH1BGoe3uDN-5s8c6nm0rKcjmkQqj74BHYlfAefov7lQcf_wiizjRUG22dAC7ol2XaGIbDuE7sK7iFmhjEDK-TV2t7S0pbZpyUSUJ0Ml/s1600/1a.jpg" height="154" width="320" /> </a></div>
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I started with Evergreen styrene brick patterned sheet cut to a proper size and fit the windows and door. Using a spray can satin black decanted into the airbrush, I put a coat on it and a sheet of plain styrene for the floor. I used a mixture of Terra Cotta and Crimson Red thinned with Windex in the airbrush to give several successive coats to the walls allowing for drying between coats (accelerated with a hair dryer). A thin coat of clear flat lacquer was then sprayed on. To that, I applied a mixture of powdered chalks in a gray color and alcohol. This dried quickly of course and was buffed with a paper towel followed by another coat of the clear flat lacquer. Some dusting with dry chalk powders finished the walls. The windows and door were painted with Ivy Green acrylic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnP0n9DISPrSdfWREOcH-DjhvwVoErT3bS64y2XCX5BjDPiA89MrNswpFa7GunY-_CPv5r7d9tZxjpmFn1viLuSMuRQgRm3y7lCIzZQ5_aXngbEHGX4SK-hkISAd1Hvj36sM9DGa-0HUsJ/s1600/2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnP0n9DISPrSdfWREOcH-DjhvwVoErT3bS64y2XCX5BjDPiA89MrNswpFa7GunY-_CPv5r7d9tZxjpmFn1viLuSMuRQgRm3y7lCIzZQ5_aXngbEHGX4SK-hkISAd1Hvj36sM9DGa-0HUsJ/s1600/2b.jpg" height="184" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh58E0JVpl9a7NiDiid8Yo1gcsqv-HtrGlKZl-tfpWnS61fsxLRYLLlCL8noXSHGDrVYIDlwvR7YPidrGtxJ1mpg5_Cz6ktFx7p_7Caly4D7FDs6sX_nLuq7DGBCxqv7vbwtlaPcdD9BbBK/s1600/2f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh58E0JVpl9a7NiDiid8Yo1gcsqv-HtrGlKZl-tfpWnS61fsxLRYLLlCL8noXSHGDrVYIDlwvR7YPidrGtxJ1mpg5_Cz6ktFx7p_7Caly4D7FDs6sX_nLuq7DGBCxqv7vbwtlaPcdD9BbBK/s1600/2f.jpg" height="262" width="320" /></a></div>
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Attention was turned to the floor already in black. I scribed expansion joints in the plastic and scuffed it up a bit with fine sandpaper. Again, using cheap craft paints, I thinned gray, tan and black for the airbrush with Windex and sprayed several coats allowing them to dry between each. A thin coat of the clear flat lacquer on that and when dry, a series of acrylic washes to simulate stains.<br />
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In order to get the walls to sit firmly on the styrene floor I glued a piece of styrene L channel to the floor and when set, the walls to it. A small storage loft was built in one corner with stairs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6PiPmUCwa-0eR9ydMeV7ecrlvCpsSfR4w6EfKRfC26OvvIpRmLNJIap6qYZKIXu7-jI_uL-TZOkqlUSu6Dzk4vE4sejWuFVGyWarol2XkzBvQJIsV_WV3OWvEvIoPuNUczOveudewCTlJ/s1600/fl5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6PiPmUCwa-0eR9ydMeV7ecrlvCpsSfR4w6EfKRfC26OvvIpRmLNJIap6qYZKIXu7-jI_uL-TZOkqlUSu6Dzk4vE4sejWuFVGyWarol2XkzBvQJIsV_WV3OWvEvIoPuNUczOveudewCTlJ/s1600/fl5.jpg" height="320" width="309" /></a></div>
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It was then a matter of creating and adding details. a small workbench was built out of wood and the rest of the details were from my collection of cast metal, resin and laser cut card stock. Some signage was created on the computer and printed. As time goes on I will be adding and taking away details to suit my fancy. I have been using Microscale Liquitape to fasten details so they can easily be moved or removed.<br />
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A few pics here of me fooling around with the camera in my new garage.<br />
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I'm sure you will be seeing a lot more of this in the future. The lighting possibilities are endless. I would like to , at some point add a roof system with lighting and a chain hoist but at this point, I can't figure out how to support it without putting an obstructive post in my camera positions.<br />
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Well this was a very quick, fun build. Thanks for looking. And do something nice for someone today.chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-17352637448544577872014-03-01T22:45:00.001-05:002014-03-01T22:53:01.896-05:00While the woodpile is evaporating<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well it seems so anyway. This winter has been brutal from a temperature standpoint in many parts of the country. So tell me, the rest of America, how does it feel to share our New England weather? Seems like it's the subject of every meeting you have with someone. I listen to folks coming back from vacation in the warmer climes and I am envious to some extent. But then I envision the last day of such a vacation and couldn't bear the thought of packing up and coming home to this frigidity. I'll bear with it and keep my eye on the calendar as the days get x-ed out. Frankly, I do not mind being out in the cold, I dress properly and haven't any issues, even liking the zero humidity as the mercury dips below the same. I like the sound of the snow as it squeaks under my boots when it gets down around 10 or 20 below. It's seeing all that hard work put into that woodpile disappear so fast and getting that oil bill every month that's a bit discouraging. It does however afford more time at the workbench. And here are the fruits of that time for the last few weeks.<br />
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I keep receiving discards from Ralph Ratcliffe's line of terrific resin pieces in the mail and honestly, they are more precise and crisp than most resin outfit's regular offerings. This Mack DM600 steel hood cab is no exception. I really had to look hard to find anything wrong with it but Ralph is such a perfectionist that he refused to sell it. I had picked up another of the Athearn kits while at the Springfield show this year from Trip Aiken of Truck Stop Models. I really like these kits, they are extremely well detailed and that they have no paint to strip off makes starting them easy. I needed a good dump body for the DM and the Mack R model kit supplied the one for this model. The chassis is resin, also from Ralph (I bought this) and I added Ralph's suspensions, step fuel tanks and wheels. To the dump bed I added a foot rail and marker lights. The plastic scuff boards were cut off and replaced with wood. And lastly, a tool/chain box, mudflaps and A-Line mirrors were applied and I built the exhaust system, front bumper and frame plate at the rear with photo etched lights. The dump bed actually raises using the ram and piston from the kit adapted to the resin chassis. <br />
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To get the muddied look on the bed, I painted specific areas with a clear flat acrylic and sprinkled artists chalks into the wet finish.<br />
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This next Mack is the rest of the Mack R Model kit cab, chassis and wheels with the telescoping boom from the Athearn Ford F850 kit to make this tractor mounted boom truck. The fifth wheel, tool/chain box and chain on the bumper were added to make what has become a favorite. The heat shield on the exhaust is from Masterbilt model. I really like how this truck turned out and now I need to figure out what to use for a trailer. <br />
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I picked up a few Jordan Miniatures and set right to work on their Ford Model TT truck. The bed is my depiction of a grain bed that isn't quite like the prototype I modeled the truck after but is close enough and plausible in my opinion. It is entirely scratch built from styrene. I left the little flathead exposed here since it would be a shame to cover it up.<br />
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Well that's about it for now although I have a few more on the bench in progress. I hope you all stay warm and if you're not, find someone you love to cuddle with.chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-86192783498308650492014-02-06T22:13:00.001-05:002014-02-06T22:13:45.849-05:00Time is distance<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ever since I was kid, I always wondered why folks use time to tell distance. It's about 60 miles to Portland from here but if you were to ask anyone, they would say "It's about an hour and a half away." The store down the road is "only a few minutes from here". The last job I did in Penna. was about 7 miles from my house. It took about 40 minutes to get there. When I moved to New Hampshire, my first job was almost exactly the same distance, 7 miles. But it was only about a fifteen minute ride. So even though each were the same distance away from my home, I would say that one was 40 minutes away and the other fifteen minutes away. Of course we all know why. There were no less than a dozen red lights and lines of traffic in Penna. And the N.H. run was a straight run on a 55 mph highway. In fact when I first moved to N.H., there were no lights within a 45 minute ride of home in N.H. (that's about 30 some miles) And trying to funnel all that traffic through all those interchanges in Penna. was like moving a lot of water through a small diameter pipe. It just doesn't get done quickly.<br />
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So what does this all have to do with modeling? Absolutely nothing. But it does say something about how we think. Our time is valuable to us. And we would rather see distance in terms of the time it takes to go from one place to another than on the actual measure we have relegated to distance. Our perception of time takes precedence over distance. OK, enough thinking out loud, now to the models.<br />
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I've mentioned the Athearn vehicles in kit form before and picked up another of the Ford F850 kits. I used the Athearn frame and placed the Boley roll back wrecker unit on it. That's basically it except for the paint and weathering. The 'advanced design' Chevy pickup (1949-54) is from Busch and I replaced the wheels with plain steel rims from Jordan.<br />
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Next piece I did was another quick, down and dirty model with not a lot of fanfare. I chose the Sylvan Scale '37 Chevy panel truck. Aside from putting the plain steel wheels from Jordan on it, fitting an acrylic windshield and of course the finish, there's no change to the model as it comes in the kit from Sylvan. The last photo of this truck has some 'photoshop' type effects that I thought made it look like a hand painted post card.<br />
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This last one has become a favorite. It's the first of Clare Gilbert's (Sylvan) 1936 Chevy trucks that I have done. I scratch built the wrecker unit and the bed for it. The wheels are from Jordan again. I jacked the cab and body up slightly to give the truck a bit more aggressive stance. <br />
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So a little trip back in time (how far is that?) for this posting. Thanks for taking the time to visit and no matter how far away in time or distance your loved one's are, reach out and give them a call. chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-7251183592106289002013-11-22T21:51:00.000-05:002013-11-23T08:08:24.757-05:00New completions<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Again I come short of a good title but you get the message. Just a few trucks that I don't believe I've shown here before and a little description of each. The rather sinister looking Mack Granite SBA dump is a rebuild using two different dumps. The cab is the resin model made to be used with a Herpa/Promotex Mack CH as a donor vehicle. I did use the 'glass' and interior from the Herpa piece but the rest is from a variety of sources. Prominent is the terrific dump bed that is a resin copy of a scratch built bed of Joe Enriquez that he was kind enough to give me along with the fuel tanks. The frame is scratch built with Dennis Aust suspension and wheels along with the lift axle.<br />
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I took some liberties with this next truck. This is one of Ralph Ratcliffe's jewels, the Brockway 758. I had a Matchbox dump body that came from the Dodge they put out which happens to be one of the few actual 1/87 scale models done by Matchbox. Well, I've never really seen a Brockway rock truck before in an all wheel drive and have no idea if any were ever made. But there is one in 1/87 now anyway. Most everything I used was from the parts box so I have no idea what the origin of most of it is. Suffice it to say that my regard for prototypical accuracy went right out the window with this one. But I like it.<br />
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Then there was this little Wiking piece. What is referred to as the International Loadstar COE and/or the Cargostar, depending on who you talk to was produced in the late 60's. I bought some Wiking models for a train layout I started when my boys were little to augment some Wiking vehicles I bought when I was 13 years old. So this model has been with me for about 30 years. I placed the Wiking cab on a Roco chassis from their long ago discontinued civilian line of vehicles. The flat bed is scratch built and the stake sides are from the parts box. The wheels are from an Athearn Ford C cab with tires from an Imex piece.<br />
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Curiously I'm not sure about the John Deere tractor. I'm guessing an Innovative Designs piece but I could be wrong. It is a cast metal kit. This is what happens when you get old.<br />
So as we approach Thanksgiving next week, I'd like to wish you all a happy day. I hope you all are fortunate enough to be with all the one's you love.<br />
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-70356177198295541982013-11-02T13:24:00.002-04:002013-11-02T13:29:55.702-04:00Basic Airbrush<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is merely an introduction to airbrush use. It will be by no means, a comprehensive step by step that will make you an expert (certainly I, am not). Many fear the thoughts of changing the way they model. The introduction of a new technique or material creates skepticism among many. I personally have a deep skepticism towards the 3D printing technique we are seeing today since most of what I am seeing is grainy and lacks detail in our scale. But I applaud those trying it as they will be the pioneers that I'm sure will eventually overcome the pitfalls we are seeing in these models today. So in fact, quite a few have that same skepticism towards using an airbrush to produce finishes on their models. They believe they have been doing OK so far and why change? Well think for a moment on models that are hand painted or painted with a spray can. I have seen what appear to be great models at a distance only to be thoroughly disappointed when seen in up close photos or particularly in person. Imagine the thickness of the paint on a real car that you are viewing in scale. Would you ever see a one inch thick paint job on a vehicle in real life? No, and yet I see models, and even videos of models being painted that represent exactly that. You've purchased a great casting from a reputable model company that has wonderful details on it. And when painted, you ask yourself "where did the details go?" Try as I may, I have never been able to accomplish a finish paint job using a spray can that can compare to that of an airbrush. And then there are those finishes that can never be done without the airbrush. Try hand brushing a lacquer. Or laying down an impeccable Alclad 2 finish without an airbrush. It's virtually impossible and even if it could be done, the airbrush makes it so easy, why bother any other way?<br />
Lastly, of the reasons many don't want to use an airbrush is the cost. Yes, I have spent much on my Badger which is a great tool. But honestly, my everyday workhorse is the cheap $20 airbrush I purchased at WalMart that was made for them by Aztec. It is a single action "Plain Jane" that is simple to use, clean and maintain. OK enough of the reasons why you should make the switch, now for a few very simple basics.<br />
I shoot mostly solvent based paints like Floquil and Testors but on occasion, like to use lacquers and acrylics. The solvent based paints are very simple to use right from the bottle and a one ounce bottle can last for a dozen models. I do not use the rather expensive thinners offered by the manufacturers for these since I can use regular turpentine or paint thinner bought at the hardware store at a substantial savings. I often shoot directly from the bottle without thinning depending on the viscosity of the paint. For any kind of paint, it should be the consistency of whole milk. When you swirl the paint around in the paint cup, it should cling to the sides but be translucent as it slides back down to the bottom of the cup. I thin and clean the airbrush with the above mentioned thinners. I should at this point mention that I often take spray can paints and decant them into my paint cup with a straw. None of them ever needed thinning as they are meant to be sprayed anyway. After I'm finished painting, I run clear clean thinner through the brush, disassemble the cup and head from the air line and simply wipe any excess from the parts. In over ten years, with the current brushes I have, I have never completely disassembled an airbrush to clean them and they are all still in good working order. If it looks like I have a lot of build up of dried paint anywhere, I simply drop everything in a tin full of lacquer thinner for a few hours and everything comes out looking like new.<br />
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The Mack Vision above is example of an automotive lacquer. Lacquers are equally as easy and the same rules apply for viscosity and cleaning except to substitute lacquer thinner for the thinning and cleaning process. Nail polish fall into this category too and the colors available there are amazing. I often go to the cosmetic counter where a basket of bottles of nail polish that don't sell well for fingernails will be as cheap as 2 for a dollar. The only draw back to lacquers is their propensity to dry too quickly coming out of the airbrush. Sometimes it will give a gritty look to a model as the paint droplets in the spray actually dry before they hit the model. The solution to that is to cut down the distance from the airbrush to the model. Drying in the orifice of the airbrush can also be a problem but thinning a paint further usually fixes that.<br />
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Acrylics behave similarly to lacquers in that they dry very fast and pose the same issues as lacquers. My opinion is that one needs to use good acrylic paint for the airbrush and don't go with the cheap craft paints like Apple Barrel and Folk Art. They have their place but not in the airbrush. My favorite in acrylics is the line produced by Vallejo which is what I used on the F850 above. I thin acrylics for the airbrush with Windex. And clean my airbrush with windshield washer fluid that can be bought by the gallon cheaply. One note, when I clean my airbrush after shooting acrylics, I wait a few minutes and then shoot some lacquer thinner through as well. Sometimes there is a chalky residue leftover from acrylics I want rid of.<br />
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I took a bunch of PVC campaign signs down from the road after an election that I use to test spray before I actually move on to the model. This gives me a good idea of what's coming out of the airbrush given the paint I am using, the distance I am spraying and the coverage I'm getting. This will tell you a lot about how that model will take your paint. I first mist the model with what I call a tack coat. Almost no color is going on the model but enough to cover all areas so no bare plastic, metal or whatever material you are spraying is showing. When that is thoroughly dry, I go on to lay down a coat of paint. Many times, one coat is sufficient. The way I paint is always a two phase project. I will always do a base coat whether it is a primer for plastic over which I will be doing a lacquer. Or a base coat of a dark brown. The reason for the darker color is that I use very little finish color over it and it allows panel lines and details to pop out. You see, in this scale, details are so small that they will be obscured by heavy painting and cast no significant shadow to belay their existence. So what I do for painting is to strive for as realistic a look as though it were a real vehicle. No one inch thick paint jobs even if there are multiple layers/colors being used. I have resorted to even merely misting my models with the finish coat to just give a hint of the color being used. This is just not possible with a spray can. And holding the can far away with the hope of getting less on the model, usually results in the grainy look I described earlier or not enough coverage.<br />
With the airbrush, I have never had some of the conflicts of the spray can use like orange peel finishes or runs and drips. The airbrush process is just so much easier to control. So go ahead, buy a cheap airbrush and give it a whirl. Experiment with all kinds of paints since your experimentation will yield much more information than I could ever hope to give you. And don't wait another day to tell your loved one's you care.<br />
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-14332555497138649912013-10-24T19:55:00.001-04:002013-10-24T19:55:19.752-04:00Autumn <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I usually have an aversion to this season, the harbinger of the season that comes after it every year. There's putting up the firewood I've worked on all summer, and swapping the screens for the storm windows (yes, I still do it the old fashioned way) and of course throwing more clothes on than I'm comfortable with. Then there's raking the leaves and....... well, you get the picture. But this year I have the pleasure of seeing the Red Sox in the Fall classic. But then again, my television watching will come to an end with the loss of the 5 or 6 baseball games every week. This is a mixed blessing. It moves me onto the workbench and gets the creative juices going. Lots of unfinished models sitting in the shelves this year that I hope I can finish.<br />
The model above is the Jordan Miniatures 1922 Packard truck. As I worked on it, I kept thinking about how detailed the chassis is and what a shame it is to keep covering it with the flatbeds, tanker bodies and such that I use to build a complete truck. So I decided, at least for now, to leave it as is and perhaps put it on the back of a more modern truck trailer as a load. I left the cab off as well to view the interior and tried to replicate the Packard Single Six engine for this model. My weathering techniques were the same as I do on a lot of older well used vehicles and I am pleased with the outcome.<br />
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I got lazy too with the Model TT, also from Jordan here. That is, I didn't spend a lot of time fabricating an interesting body configuration. I merely put the flat bed of the kit, which usually has wooden stake sides and cut down the wood stake sides from the Athearn Ford F850 kit on the deck. It has good detail and was an easy, quick body.<br />
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I did do something a little out of the ordinary here though. After painting the model with my typical first coat of Floquil RR Tie Brown, I stained it with India ink, slightly thinned with alcohol. The results were that a bit of the brown showed through. All this followed by a wash of Burnt Umber and some colored artists chalks. I thought the metal work came out pretty good here.<br />
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This next piece did require a bit of work. I started with the awful Imex Peterbilt. First thing I do with these is file out the terribly thick glazing on the windshield. I then ground the nose flat and built a radiator shroud and grille from styrene and corrugated roofing. <br />
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I used the Alcoa wheels that came with the Don Mills Mack LTL kit on the Imex wheels. The red paint is a Mazda automotive lacquer. I picked up a dump bed from Ralph Ratcliffe at the Springfield show last year and have been dying to use it and it fit the wheelbase of this truck perfectly. <br />
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Some diamond plate steps, fuel tank and some lights from a Jordan kit finished this shiny Pete up. <br />
Well this is going to be a short one since I hear they are getting ready for the first pitch against the Cards on the TV in the next room so thanks for looking and have a great Autumn.<br />
<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-70599844578538829272013-08-09T16:37:00.000-04:002013-08-09T16:46:58.929-04:00Now this is a big Mack<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A real quick entry here for my latest attempt. This is a resin kit from Ralph Ratcliffe of the Mack M65 off road quarry truck. This 65 ton rated monster is a beast and it dwarfs other pieces in the scale, even the Mack FCSW in my last photo which is in itself quite a large truck.<br />
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Ralph's kit is simply amazing. The fit of all the pieces is just perfect and I especially like the addition of brass rod in the wheel area to give a much more stable point upon which to fasten the wheel/tire combination. Wheels and tires are cast separately by the way so painting is easier. The only thing not included in the kit is the acrylic windshield.<br />
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Detail is not lacking either from the diamond plate cast into the deck area of the fenders and hose clamps for the air cleaners to the bulldog rad cap. Castings are crisp, clean and smooth. After assembly which went very fast, to finish the beast, I painted the model in my typical RR tie brown Floquil paint. I don't know what I'll use when my supply runs out as Floquil has stopped production. This was followed by a coat of Future Floor Finish and all was allowed to cure for a day. It was then time for the finish coat of Floquil UP Armour yellow, a favorite of mine. It should be noted that this color is a perfect match for the older Cat yellow. The weathering consists of a good scrub with Windex, particularly in the bed interior to remove the yellow finish coat. This "chips" the paint away since the Windex dissolves the Future undercoat and leaves the brown show. This time around I did the panel wash with India Ink diluted with alcohol followed by a flat clear lacquer. Then an acrylic wash with burnt sienna was used and allowed to dry well. Only the undercarriage, dump bed, wheels and tires then got a wash of raw sienna and I used some ground artists chalks sprinkled here and there while still wet in some specific areas. And finally I used a product found in any craft store called RubnBuff on the dump bed interior. I just brushed some on and rubbed it out to give the worn to the bare metal look.<br />
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I'm really pleased with the way this model finished but certainly could not have had the same results if it weren't for the terrific way this kit was produced by Ralph. Oh, that's a real Mack bulldog in the last photo. Thanks for looking and say a prayer for our lost loved one's.chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-68835728300639149652013-07-05T21:12:00.001-04:002013-07-05T21:24:29.370-04:00View from the barn<br />
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Lots of what I model looks like it belongs out in a field rusting away rather than powering down the highways. I've tried to find a reason why I'm so enchanted with the dilapidated and broken down but all I can come up with is because it's so inevitable. My knees remind me of that every morning on rising. Be that as it may, I'm again asked to do a weathering tutorial by several folks. I always believed that if one is good at something he is asked for his advice. It would be much more gratifying to be asked my opinion on world hunger or fixing the economy, but for now I'll settle for how I make tiny models look old. I'll go into detail on a technique or two here since it allows me to show a new piece as well as an older one.<br />
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Let me start by saying that I almost always have my camera with me. I can't tell you how many shots of vehicles, equipment, houses and barns I have because they were in some state of disrepair that I thought could be modeled. One can only imitate real life, if they are familiar with it. Study a photo (or several) that has a particular effect that you want to replicate. Then start to experiment. Broaden your concepts of what you think it is you will need to model and weather a piece. I did not have any weathering powders when I first attempted a weathered build but I realized that I had a bag of cement out in the barn that might fit the bill. It did and there are lots of other things out there that can be of help. Actually just using some of what you already have on hand can work. Once a model has been dull coated, brushing some alcohol over the finish in discriminating places gives a great look of faded paint or water stains. So experiment!<br />
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A close look at the coal delivery truck below will reveal several different colors of rust. The metal used on the fenders had been painted once and was not the same composition steel that was used for the frame or the wheels. So the rust would not be the same on all three. An indentation was made on the running boards of this Jordan Model AA just by scratching the plastic a few times. The entire piece was painted Floquil RR Tie brown. The fenders then were painted with dirty brush solvent with a little black mixed in. That's right, the solvent container that I clean my brushes in. Before it had a chance to dry, I used my airbrush with no paint in it to blow this mixture around on the fender. While it was still a bit wet, I used real rust powder and sprinkled around making sure to fill the indentation with a bunch. Some colored chalk powders that had been ground up were dusted on once everything was dry.<br />
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So where do I get this rust powder? I place a piece of steel wool in a jar and soak it with water. When completely dry, crush it up and remove the larger and unoxidized pieces. I wave a magnet over what's left to get a very fine powder the consistency of talc almost. About that frame now. Acrylic washes will not react to the solvent base brown paint and are somewhat more forgiving than solvent washes although there are some that are highly proficient in their use. So I mix a heavy wash (more color) with Windex and one of the darker rust colors like burnt sienna. You can use just water but add a drop of liquid dish wash soap. On our little models the water will bead up with just water and that hydrostatic tension needs to be cut. Because consecutive acrylic washes would 'wash' the previous color away or actually combine with it, I suggest a very thin coat of flat clear lacquer between these washes. On the Ford, I used another wash of raw sienna, a bit lighter in color. This all followed with some ground chalk powders just like the fenders. The wheel treatment is very similar but with a few different colors for the washes and a yellow ocre chalk is applied to the wheels and tires. In some instances a thicker yet wash may be needed as on the stake pockets you see on this model and sometimes a weaker wash as on the overall paint of the rest of the model.<br />
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These techniques were played with until I got what I was looking for and had seen on a real truck. And played with is exactly what was done. Here is where experimenting on cheap models can pay off in knowing what the results of a certain procedure will be when you use them on a favorite or perhaps expensive one.<br />
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OK, let me move on to another question I've had posed to me. How do you do canvas? Easy, start with toilet or tissue paper that has no patterns embossed on it. Tear apart the layers until you have a single ply of paper. I mix regular wood glue 50/50 with water and cut the tissue to a size slightly larger than necessary and drape it over the area I want covered. Placing drops on the tissue where it sits will make it lay down. Using a wetted brush, manipulate carefully until it looks like it's sitting the way you want. Tears and droops/sags should be done while it is still wet. Let the paper dry well. With a sharp new blade, trim away what you don't want and paint. I used a tan on the Chevy cab over but grey looks good and I suppose any color you want will do. It can be weathered with dark washes and chalks now but don't play with it too much or you will dissolve the glue and tear it.<br />
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Since I brought up the rust powder, I'll show another use for it. The Chevy cab over has rusting areas on the fenders and doors and to a lesser extent on the roof and hood. This is done after the dark brown base coat by wetting the model just on the areas you want the rust to show with water. Sprinkle the rust powder onto the wet areas and let dry. If you think there's too much, flick it away before you apply the finish coat of paint. After the finish coat of paint is dry to touch, gently rub the areas with a stiff bristle paint brush and some of the paint as well as flecks of rust will come off. Follow with the washes as above and you should get a similar look. I looked at a lot of real mid 40's Chevy trucks to see just where the rust was popping out. This truck is a favorite since it is like so many trucks I grew up with.<br />
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OK so I only got to cover just a few techniques but they ought to be enough to make you want to dirty something up and put it in a field. Oh, tell your kids they are great sometime today.<br />
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-72869115633789084462013-06-18T11:38:00.000-04:002013-06-18T11:38:42.249-04:00Dirty by choice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well it looks like we're seeing a lot of folks falling in line with a lot of scale modelers by adding weathering to their creations. This is great, seeing models as an actual vehicle would appear is what it is all about for me. Replicating real life in miniature is of course what all of modeling is about. Of course viewing vehicles in a shiny, spiffed up condition happens and we all strive to own a good looking vehicle no matter what we drive. But let's face it folks, a vehicle that is driven on the highways and byways of the world just don't look as pristine as we would hope unless they are destined to be automotive show pieces. And even then there are indications that a car or truck have traveled in spite of it's owners desire for it to be perfect. It is then, that the worlds most renowned modelers use some kind of technique to give their models a real look by weathering. But "adding" weathering is not what the best of the modelers in any scale that I see do to get realistic results on their pieces. It has just recently been said by a pretty darn good modeler that he weathers his pieces to cover up flaws in castings and his own mistakes. I'm sorry but I don't aspire to that attitude. This isn't meant to be, nor are the techniques as effective as, a well planned
model. Excellent weathering techniques start at the beginning of a build. Above I show one of, what I consider to be, a weathering success in the chipping technique on the Mack FCSW. Right from the start, I needed to provide a base coat that would show the haphazard loss of paint in the life of this truck. The next step would be to lay down a 'resist'. This is any type of product that will allow the modeler to remove the finish paint in a way that would reflect that loss of paint in a realistic fashion. The resist in this case was a coat of Future Floor Finish but many large scale modelers use an acrylic hairspray and in some instances rubber cement or salt. I'm not trying to dictate the process here but merely wish to point out that these techniques need to be contemplated before the model even gets it's first coat of finish paint. This can't be painted on later with rust colored paint, chalks or washes and would certainly not give the same
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<br />On the red Mack H63 you see every care has been taken to give the model as flawless as possible finish. The weathering that has been added after was not intended to cover mistakes or flaws in the casting. I purposely build the model and finish it so it can be displayed without weathering in this example to show that moderate or light weathering can be added to give a realistic look. This somewhat contradicts what I've just said above but remember that I'm not trying to make a beater here but simply a working truck with some road grime. Regardless, the weathering here is a combination of well thought out techniques here and not just adding stuff until it 'looks right'. Study trucks and cars and look at prototypes. Know what it is you're striving for prior to putting a brush to your models. And then of course is practice. I spend many hours fooling with washes, chalks and painting techniques to see just what the results will be so when it comes time to weather a piece, I know what will look right, and real. And of course, I'm not always as successful as I would like. But just guessing has never given me satisfactory results.<br />
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I now cite a model that I hope will show the influence of some larger scale modelers on me. Simply stated, less is more. Very little change from the original paint with the 'addition' of a few paint chips on the bumper and a dusting of tires is seen here. It isn't necessary to make a God awful mess of a model to show some use. Another technique is that of a panel wash one might notice here. An acrylic wash with a darker color of the finish paint is applied to accent panel lines and small details. Especially in this small scale details are so small that they cast no significant shadow when trying to photograph them. a color that is slightly darker that the finish paint can give a much more realistic look and can turn an average model into a really great one. A word of caution when doing this to white and lighter colored models, this technique can ruin it if the panel wash is too dark and is virtually impossible to fix. Weathering should not be all that obvious and again, look to the prototype. Does it have large black lines all over it? Less is more!</div>
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I refer back now to the beginning where I stated that some weathering needs to be planned from the start. On really old vehicles, paint fade is always an issue. You will notice on the Mack LT above that the finish coat has been removed in a way that imitates sun faded and rain washed paint. It was done with a method similar to the chipped paint on the FCSW but done a little more aggressively. Future Floor Finish is soluble in Windex and/or windshield washer fluid so the model was washed (literally) with Windex to achieve the look. You will also notice the chassis and wheels have been painted the same brownish color that the cab was before it got the red paint. And that the wheels were painted white in the second shot and the holes in the steel rim have been filled with black. Here is the perfect application for a black wash that I previously poo-pooed. </div>
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What you see immediately above is the results of having darkened the chassis, fuel tanks etc. with an India ink and alcohol wash. I wanted some rusting effect of the base coat to show through without having to do any paint removal. Some acrylic washes of raw umber and burnt umber accentuate the collection of rust in specific areas. And finally below, you see the finished model complete with a coat of clear flat lacquer and some dusting with ground up artists chalks and touching of high wear spots with graphite. It is important to give the model some tooth for the chalks to adhere hence the flat clear coat. Stains on the gas tank were made by wetting the whole tank with washer fluid and streaking with some acrylic 'oily black' (PolyScale color) after the chalk application.</div>
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I know this has not been a comprehensive step by step on weathering. But I wanted to make the point that this weathering thing isn't something one should attempt to cover a bad modeling job. On the contrary, it is intended to enhance a well made model and if you wish to do it, should be a well planned sequence of procedures. Because I plan to broadcast this writing to attract readers I suppose I should add this 'disclaimer'. If you believe I am addressing you personally, perhaps I am. However it is not a condemnation of your work. It is merely a hope that I may be able to improve your endeavors into the realm of weathering in this scale. If not for the constructive criticism of others, I certainly would not be the modeler that I hope to be. And remember to kiss and hug your loved ones at every chance.</div>
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chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-9622521568127277732013-06-07T11:58:00.001-04:002013-06-07T11:58:23.334-04:00Some thoughts from the past<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Several years ago I wrote an article that has appeared on the web in a few places that I would like to include here. It speaks about the influence every day life has on my modeling as well as the relationship we as modelers share in our thought process. Included are some of my most recent endeavors but I won't be focusing on them and include them merely as eye candy as one reads this rant. So here are my thoughts as viewed only part way in the course of my journey into the hobby of 1/87 scale modeling.<br />
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So what is it that intrigues us so much about rust and decay? What is the attraction and why do we model it?<br /> <br /> To do my Christmas shopping today (yes, it’s Dec. 24th) I rode into Rockland . On the way there is a garage that seems to have a knack for hot rodding as there is always some spiffy rig out front. Today there was a restored Ford Vicky and a ‘65 Chevy Malibu all decked out in good taste. Around back there is 8 to 10 old wrecks in varying stages of decay. The first word that came to mind was “potential”. Perhaps because I had just seen the nice rehabs out front or because I thought of what I might want to do to them (a ‘40 Ford coupe stood out) So is it the potential in those rusting bodies that is the allure? I envision what those cars might have been like when they were in their prime. What made the dark stain on the backseat of the ‘49 Woody? Maybe it was Sally spilling her grape juice on the long vacation drive to the northern lake. And what put the splintered dent in the bed of the old flatbed? I picture workmen loading materials before the days of the forklift truck. I also see the uniformed driver lunching on the running board enjoying his waxed paper wrapped sandwich and insulated tin of coffee.<br />
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<br /> I often look at the beams of my barn that was built in the early 1800’s. The adz marks on the beams show the final cuts of the woodworker squaring the timber. Did he know that almost two centuries later I would be thinking of him? The terribly weathered original cedar shake siding loses a few shakes every windstorm to leave showing the tiny cut nails that held them on. We that work on houses often leave something to indicate our presence there. I mark my name and the date on the back side of planks that will never be seen until a future someone tears them from their place. And I have found coins and postal markings from envelopes under thresholds marking the dates that the doors were hung. Always, I am reminded that there was a person much like me that put them there, or drove those nails for the siding.<br />
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<br /> These aren’t just rusting machines and old dilapidated structures. They represent personal experience. The family car, the truck driven daily to make the driver his wages and the barn that the farmer milked his cows in, can even today be related to real people. I almost hate to see the rusty old car turned back into a viable means of transportation. In today’s state of neglect, it says so much more about how long it’s been around and what it’s been through. <br />
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<br /> And why do we want to model these old things that have seen better days? Are we making the concession to the real world that we must accept all that is in it? Or is this the way we would like the world to be? I haven’t made my mind up on this one. I often feel it’s the way it was before these things took a down turn that we would most like to see. And that modeling them in their present condition is our tribute to what they were and what they represented to the folks of the time. <br />
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I suppose I should give some information about these models shown starting with the first photo of the Mack R model that is pulling the lowboy. The load is the Cat No. 12 grader from Norscot as is the Trail King lowboy and the Mack is from Athearn. All have been stripped and repainted, the lowboy has a new wood deck and the Mack has a shortened chassis with a bunch of extras added. The red IH KB12 is one of those cheap Imex pieces with a change to the windshield area and the location of the headlamps along with the additions of fuel tanks, wheels, mud flaps and a fifth wheel.<br />
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Well thanks for taking the time to put up with another of my long winded rants on the subject of modeling in miniature. Please take the time to tell all your loved ones how much they mean to you today.<br />
chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-90614633355128937622013-05-05T21:52:00.000-04:002013-05-05T21:52:05.889-04:00Warmer days<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Looks like winter has let go of us here in northern New England. Days are ranging from the 50's to 70 degrees but nights are in the 30's. Still touching a fire off when the sun goes down. I took advantage of the sun today with a few photos of some recent and not so recent work. My favorite of this bunch is the 1934 Ford furniture van that I built using the Jordan school bus kit chassis and front clip.<br />
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The model was painted in Floquil coach green and flat clear coated. The rear flap is tissue paper with styrene dowels wrapped on the top and bottom. The small gas/electric locomotive in the background is also a Jordan kit of the Mack unit.</div>
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The next piece is a Freightliner Mountaineer. This was a four wheel drive tractor developed to haul 24 and 25 foot doubles over the western mountains. I have taken a major modelers license here in presenting the Mountaineer as a tow truck. Although I could easily see one of these resurrected as one. The basic truck is the Athearn Freightliner with the cab cut to a slab. The bed is also from Athearn cut down to a single screw unit and remounted the wrecker unit with new cabling. The fuel tank, air snorkel, and everything on the crossover deck is scratch built with the exception of the tool box on the curb side from Ralph Ratcliffe..<br />
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I decided to dust off an old favorite and give her some new wheels. Unfortunately I didn't cut the axle short enough. The Ulrich needlenose Kenworth is a diecast piece that I shaved the molded in the fender headlights and placed some new ones more appropriately. Fender mounted turn signals, horn, mirrors, diamond plate running boards, visor and different air cleaner are just some of the other changes/additions to the model. I'm hoping to find another one of these, I have some other things I would like to change as well on what could be a very nice model.<br />
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Looks like the warmer weather will be bringing on the outdoor chores now. Spent the day working on the tractor since the needle valve in the carb stuck open and the whole fuel tank emptied into the crankcase this winter. Broken mower deck repaired, front garden edged, damn.... I deserve some modeling time.</div>
<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-80909703668711683502013-02-24T12:32:00.002-05:002013-02-24T12:32:55.982-05:00Don't tell me it's raining.....<br />
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Most of you know the rest of that saying. And it may be a bit harsh to use it to describe what I'm feeling about the social communicating media we all know as Facebook. However it is an accurate expression to use regarding the way many folks are beginning to treat the groups I have subscribed to. Each and every one that I decided to visit and contribute to begin with "1/87 scale". To me this means we are supposed to discuss scale models, specifically 1/87 scale and what most of us accept as a reasonable tolerance. Personally I would include that to mean between 1/85 and 1/90 since we can't be perfect all the time as hard as we (should) try. Arguments have become heated at times and I confess to being right in the middle of them in many instances. Perhaps I should keep my mouth shut because there are a lot of folks out there with very thin skin and can't recognize the difference between constructive criticism and an attack on their personage. My apologies to them but please, if you're going to contribute to these groups which are labeled as "scale" modeling groups, do one of two things to ease the tension that has been created on occasion. One, get it right. Get a scale ruler, learn how to do the math, and find out what the size of the real object you are trying to model is. Notice I said "object" since often it is not a whole model that is out of scale but just a sub assembly or detail. Or choose number two. Grow some thicker bark. Most folks aren't on these groups to take out their frustrations on others, they just want to help. I've tried to give an understanding of scale in every endeavor I communicate in be it magazine articles I've written to internet forum and email list discussions. I'm not interested in one-upmanship. This is NOT a competition. I'm simply trying to get to the true and accurate techniques to create more realistic looking models. And that's what this is all about, isn't it?<br />
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Well for some it isn't. Vehicles that look really cool (or 'kool' written by most that wet themselves over them) and objects of a caricature nature are all well and good. I actually do get a kick out of them. But I'm not interested in waiting for my computer to load photos of them on a site where 1/87 is the reason I have decided to visit. There is a plethora (love that word) of places to go where Big Daddy Roth is worshiped and revered and folks model in a variety of scales. More often where there is no discernible scale at all. And there's nothing wrong with that! But those places are where those things belong. Get it? Find the group where the folks there most appreciate what it is you want to contribute. Where it is most appropriate. But please leave the 1/87 scale groups to those that want 1/87 scale modeling.<br />
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OK, enough of that, I'm tired of beating my keyboard (a few years ago it would have been my gums) on a subject some will either refuse to or incapable of understanding and let's look at some recent modeling. I really like the repertoire of Don Mills Models. I've done his FCSW twice now and I'm going to show the Mack LTL here now for the second time. Form what information I can gather, The LTL (last 'L' for light) was a sort of experiment by Mack to lighten the weight of the truck by an extensive use of aluminum in it's parts. The only visual evidence of this is the use of 5 hole Alcoa wheels although many of the parts besides the wheels were aluminum including the chassis. The reason I point this out is because at the same time Mack was still producing the LT with steel parts which is what I've chosen to model here. I have substituted a steel wheel for the Alcoas that came with the kit and moved the air cleaner to the curb side of the hood to show what I am led to believe would be called an LTH ('H' for heavy).<br />
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I was standing in front of Don Mill's table at Springfield talking about what we both love, the trucks and the models, when I spotted an old EKO model Don had for sale. It was a Pegaso, a truck made in Spain, coupled with a mid 50's Fruehauf tanker trailer. It even says Fruehauf on the bottom of the casting. It had some rather bulbous, out of scale castings on it but for $5, I couldn't pass it up. Sorry I didn't take some before photos but suffice it to say the crappy details came off and I added a few of my own.<br />
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I had to build new fuel tanks for the LTH because what came with the kit had too many flaws and I added a heat shield to the exhaust stack that I think I will be doing over in the future but for now will pass. The trailer had a bunch of lights put on the rear and I built a tire/chain rack underneath with a wood deck and put some Lonestar landing gear also. Still needed as well is a Bulldog for the rad cap that Alloy Forms has in a lost wax brass casting that is pretty nice.<br />
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This next one was a real quickee since I didn't want to spend a whole lot of time on this particular Imex casting. It is of the 1948 Ford truck that I have placed on a Boley chassis and scratch built a bed and wrecker unit for. I replaced the grille and headlights as well as 'tuned up' the windshield area and cut in a rear window to try to give this diecast piece a little more prototypical look. The wheels are from a Miniaturmodelle Russian Gaz truck.</div>
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Well I know I stepped on a few toes here with this posting as usual. I'm sure however if you're the kind of modeler that takes the time to come here to read my blog, that I'm preaching to the choir. You obviously have good taste, love puppies and are an all around great person. Make sure to give your loved one's a hug today.chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-42676545600805511012013-02-06T13:31:00.002-05:002013-02-06T13:51:08.048-05:00Apres Springfield<br />
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Having missed the big Amherst Railway Show in W. Springfield, Mass. last year, I had an even greater anticipation for the event here in 2013. Gathering up all the models I was taking there and hoping I would pack them safely I almost felt giddy. But the show came and went and I had a great time seeing all of my 1/87 scale vehicle buddies and meeting some new. A few things I did prior to the show will be shown here as well as one project I finished since.<br />
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Another model I built for the show was a Zis-5 that mysteriously showed up in a box here at Christmas time with another saying Merry Christmas from Santa. Many thanks to Santa! One of the trucks came with a tanker body produced in the Czech Republic that I finished in acrylics.<br />
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One more to make the trip was a unique little piece in a Model T with trailer. I saw this configuration in an old photo and decided to give it a try. The T of course is the Jordan coupe and the trailer is the popcorn wagon also from Jordan. From all that I can gather many of the vehicle pulled trailers of the time started as horse drawn wagons and were modified. so this is what I came up with.<br />
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This piece was done since the show. In fact I picked it up from Ralph Ratcliffe at the show. This solid resin cab is of the Brockway 758. To it, I added photo etched muffler heat shield (thanks Bob Johnson), crossover deck marker lights, fuel tank steps and mud flaps. The trailer has been shown before here, the Fruehauf 28' wedge from Rail Power.<br />
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chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-51775193831291766542013-01-03T16:39:00.000-05:002013-01-03T16:39:10.712-05:00In kit form<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If you're not familiar with the line of vehicles that Athearn is producing these days, you're missing some great models. I've already shown a few that I've altered and even one almost identical to the one shown here in the Ford F850 boom truck. But as good as they are, I find the paint job from the factory a bit heavy. I know this because we now have the opportunity to get some of these models in kit form. They are reminiscent of the large scale plastic kits we all built as kids (and maybe still do!). The castings on this Ford are crisp and clean and there is no lacking of detail for the scale. One of the reasons I like them in kit form besides the fact that I no longer need to strip the model, is that it enables the modeler to paint sub assemblies before putting the model all together. For this particular truck, I built handrails and racks out of .025" styrene rod to make the truck a reinforcing rod delivery truck. Aside from that the truck is built according to instructions. I should add that Trip Aiken of Truck Stop Models sent me this kit and a set of instructions that he wanted me to proof read, add to and/or alter to make it an easy build. So I had a slight hand in the creation of this piece to the public albeit a very small hand. Everything is assembled using plastic solvent glues. I painted it with Testors Acrylic with surprising results. Acrylics are very touchy to spray with an airbrush. I had no problems here and I believe the results speak for themselves. I should add that there is a very thin coat of clear flat lacquer over everything here before installing the glass. I really must find a more suitable cable material.<br />
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-32831678748325949502013-01-01T10:12:00.000-05:002013-01-01T10:27:10.620-05:00End of year completions2012 could have very well been a better year for many. I know it could in my instance but that hasn't deterred me from working at the bench. As I've said before, this hobby has become great therapy in fact.<br />
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First one I'd like to talk about is a venture into kit bashing I never thought I'd be doing only a few years ago. My limited knowledge of the real truck here had me a bit confused as to what exactly I was building but after a lot of research and the picking of others brains, I came up with the Kenworth 848 in a western logger. The base model is the Athearn Kenworth that one can see in this photo below has been pretty extensively dissected. Gone are the fenders, steps and hood sides. In starting to reassemble a truck from this I used square tube styrene to create new fenders and covered them in the excellent Plano brass diamond plate. A new grille was created using styrene and aluminum corrugated roofing.<br />
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I chose to fit this rig on the Model Power Kenworth chassis because it had the correct wheelbase and an engine. The engine however was far too small for the scale and was replaced. You see the new Cat C12 in place with a new bumper and mirror standards added. This engine is a bit new for this truck but my discussion with others familiar with this truck tell me they were tremendously underpowered from the factory and many had engines swapped out for more powerful one's. The air cleaners here just don't work for me even though prototypical on several I've seen.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLDMnYMTtPP3yUhQjjMG3otNgcJuqVxxmL9-KNKCIa99HouALquX4aBgk-1YaXhJ6Z18A6gpurMQH9Iq0dc9LLz98BpOMGB46tJuYhNva2Xdk1VxW7gWxO5XQt3b422DRmvBpIt18NHch6/s1600/2a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLDMnYMTtPP3yUhQjjMG3otNgcJuqVxxmL9-KNKCIa99HouALquX4aBgk-1YaXhJ6Z18A6gpurMQH9Iq0dc9LLz98BpOMGB46tJuYhNva2Xdk1VxW7gWxO5XQt3b422DRmvBpIt18NHch6/s200/2a.jpg" width="200" /> </a></div>
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Loosely fitted here are the cab protector and log bunks that are from a resin kit by Dennis Aust Models. Dennis has suspended production for a while and a huge void exists in the scale right now. We hope he starts up again soon. Also seen are the new air cleaners, mirrors, a few steps and grab bars and a coat of paint on the cab. I always do a dark primer on everything these days that has a lot to do with my finishing/weathering techniques.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxLKD-SOOzvJORsCebuipEw-dvVYj9w-MhFdw4VzrJooVkn3NMYBR3M9eKBmurDmPiS-s00KFVTDLdxuihjRIcbjghW4GpztLTnU-IlEpmE5bQyCjQEvuM_CfOPMB1SQHqZoSo4IiVZq4/s1600/4d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxLKD-SOOzvJORsCebuipEw-dvVYj9w-MhFdw4VzrJooVkn3NMYBR3M9eKBmurDmPiS-s00KFVTDLdxuihjRIcbjghW4GpztLTnU-IlEpmE5bQyCjQEvuM_CfOPMB1SQHqZoSo4IiVZq4/s200/4d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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It's at this point that I do what is necessary for a finished model to appear. Headlamps are a styrene dowel drilled out painted chrome and filled with Sobo clear craft glue. The cab protector and log bunks are fastened and a finish coat of paint goes on. In this case Floquil UP armor yellow Rail color, a perfect match by the way for the old Cat yellow. Notice the fuel tank made of sheet brass is between the cab and it's protector as in the original.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh106YLKWKUDL2zW9Cx1_4zfEWvLFR2qj2T_DqGHvZYHAcGiVVVIMsVhrHv6J-Y0OV-Kf6hZ2tcgFnu6iMeUt4yAvsh3nfnbOSahpzBFqhFw08jrVo21x2EsPW5lfo2GDMXY5TQo6KmwPuk/s1600/6b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh106YLKWKUDL2zW9Cx1_4zfEWvLFR2qj2T_DqGHvZYHAcGiVVVIMsVhrHv6J-Y0OV-Kf6hZ2tcgFnu6iMeUt4yAvsh3nfnbOSahpzBFqhFw08jrVo21x2EsPW5lfo2GDMXY5TQo6KmwPuk/s320/6b.jpg" width="320" /> </a><br />
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Of course this kind of truck is useless without a trailer and Dennis' kit provides the makings of one. Tires and wheels on the truck are Roco off road on Promotex 6 spoke rims. A few washes and a shot with some artists chalks ready this piece for photos. So here are a few.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3otOSEe18fYsAPs9Zzp-_d13lBhnDM4G114FiGUGGiHbCct3Yt3zy9unYCXUc-7u5LPH7NRX0KYAvyQ1YqCJrMp8xCjseO_0qmcxPmSNeNpQDitSBrq_T-2BuCoDS2YCvbUTx2IurUoyU/s1600/01c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3otOSEe18fYsAPs9Zzp-_d13lBhnDM4G114FiGUGGiHbCct3Yt3zy9unYCXUc-7u5LPH7NRX0KYAvyQ1YqCJrMp8xCjseO_0qmcxPmSNeNpQDitSBrq_T-2BuCoDS2YCvbUTx2IurUoyU/s200/01c.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Number two of this post was a fun, quick build as are most of these Sylvan pieces for me. So just a few quick shots of this 1960 White 4000 in an oil field boom truck.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8_AjrFT9ICxRmoY5WAVNwCc_FRnd10dSG8XKBQlszjtLHEeIQXFC98xhYvNa4ctuSxrx5VCyfL2qhS3e2dppInXNHOUp0k39rIZoMKMBizQ2cRwfPR_T3vd5x-mXcc1PHZxvlknRH4Yz/s1600/5d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8_AjrFT9ICxRmoY5WAVNwCc_FRnd10dSG8XKBQlszjtLHEeIQXFC98xhYvNa4ctuSxrx5VCyfL2qhS3e2dppInXNHOUp0k39rIZoMKMBizQ2cRwfPR_T3vd5x-mXcc1PHZxvlknRH4Yz/s200/5d.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Everyone have a safe and Happy New Year please and let your loved ones know you care. </div>
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2848493298078012871.post-33465892026047981432012-11-19T19:07:00.001-05:002012-11-19T19:07:48.150-05:00Spurts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrmyr-qt46zv7v6d5cRYBuLu33oJ26lsfOcK6wEpb8ySW6xtLMr9OxMT3NHSdl7CbRZP2zZUNzje7iqp8oti49n-oRoBn1nfWUQ1djfkT-uIbYe_v0dJLyZsW8_JEDQLYd3jiP3Q4HKWdD/s1600/2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrmyr-qt46zv7v6d5cRYBuLu33oJ26lsfOcK6wEpb8ySW6xtLMr9OxMT3NHSdl7CbRZP2zZUNzje7iqp8oti49n-oRoBn1nfWUQ1djfkT-uIbYe_v0dJLyZsW8_JEDQLYd3jiP3Q4HKWdD/s320/2b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It seems like I accomplish models in spurts. Several get done in a short period of time and then long periods of drought between. Well here's hoping this is the start of a spurt. I've been working out of state with my youngest son all summer. The will be a hiatus for a few short months and then I'm back down to work in Penna. again for a much shorter time. Hopefully, it will be back to Maine for good when I'm finished down there sometime in the early spring. Suffice it to say, I get no modeling done down there.<br />
So here's a piece just finished in my first three days back at the bench. No not continuously for three days. The '37 Chevy from Sylvan has been a favorite of mine and I've built quite a few now. This is the second wrecker I've done with the '37 and I changed the look a bit with this one by adding the fendered bed. The boom is also scratch built and I placed the Jordan wheels on it. The grille has been Bare Metal Foil-ed and the paints are Floquil Rail colors. A very light coat of clear flat lacquer dulled it up and a few washes were done. A very light dusting with artists chalks finish it.<br />
Short but sweet this time, thanks for looking.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0GA8zKRRZBbkQRx8sRbaeal9XTpBpqGX1DRx713nRVBc28DNOfekqUzp_ltoI8cc3A87aDfPqfr2iYFOBk4lBYKmiiVSs5-DwjJeVXmWXLpxvDyRnh8Aafvq_N_vZPyihAQZnQhmLrBk/s1600/3d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0GA8zKRRZBbkQRx8sRbaeal9XTpBpqGX1DRx713nRVBc28DNOfekqUzp_ltoI8cc3A87aDfPqfr2iYFOBk4lBYKmiiVSs5-DwjJeVXmWXLpxvDyRnh8Aafvq_N_vZPyihAQZnQhmLrBk/s320/3d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />chesterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03798599026897438543noreply@blogger.com2